Sometimes when you get just half a chance, you have to take it. You have to ignore "Can’t do it", and focus on "How can I". If you are waiting for perfect timing, you may be waiting for a very long time. In the past, I have missed many opportunities, but not this time. Tonight, I am perched high on the East Rim with both of my sons, looking out over a desert lit up by the full moon while lightning rips thru clouds far into Mexico.
As late as last week, this trip had no chance. But then I suddenly found one last opportunity for a quick get-away. I could have said, “I’ve got too much work!” “Will has better things to do on Fall Break than hang out with has Dad.” or “C.J. would have to miss school.” But instead, I called my son Will, a sophomore at Southwestern University, and asked him if he was up for a little backpacking. He said that sounded great to him. He was in!
My younger son, C.J. is a high-school sophomore. With no Fall Break, he would have to miss two days of class in order to make this trip. But we cleared the last hurdle when he promised to get his homework done early. This will be his first backpacking trip, and despite many years of hiking and exploring in Big Bend, it will be the first time any of us have overnighted on the Rim.
So Thursday after classes, C.J. and I drove the 4 hours to Georgetown, and bright and early Friday morning, the three of us were headed west to the Big Bend. Will selected “Classic Vinyl” on XM radio, and we passed the time with the Beatles, and the Stones, mixed in with the Eagles, and a little Lynard Skynard. We pulled into Panther Junction about 4:30 that afternoon, and got our permit. Our first choice, NE4, was available. Before dinner at the Starlight, we had just enough time to make it out to Indian Head to catch the sunset on the west side of the Chisos.
Saturday, October 8
The weather is perfect, clear and about 75 degrees as we start the long climb up the Pinnacles Trail. We chat with a couple who plans to camp at SW4, and we see one other group with full packs. But other than that, we seem to have the mountain to ourselves. As Will stops to read the Mountain Lion warning sign, C.J. comes up behind him and asks, “What’s it say?”
Without missing a beat Will answers, “It says try not to look or smell like a giant can of tuna fish.” He may be off at college, but he’s still the big brother.
It quickly becomes apparent that I am the weak link on this trip. Will the switchbacks ever end? As I lag further and further behind, I occasionally catch glimpses of two backpacks on the trail ahead. Fortunately, they choose to wait and allow Dad to catch up from time to time. I have never been prouder to bring up the rear.
Mercifully the switchbacks finally do end. C.J. later informs me that there are 20 of them. (Does that count as math homework?) And we emerge into Boot Canyon. I was last here in February, and I am surprised at how much water there is now. The recent summer rains must have helped. Since we weren’t sure what we would find, we brought all of our drinking water with us. Hummingbirds and Monarch butterflies congregate at the water holes, along with the ever present Blue Jays.
We continue our climb up to the Rim and at last reach NE4 and begin to set up camp. Spectacular views from the “point” of the Northeast Rim spread out before us--Juniper Canyon, Elephant Tusk, and the Sierra Del Carmen. It’s hard to concentrate on camp set up, but at last we do, and dinner is served. It’s not the Starlight, but what a view!
Will proves that college kids really can sleep anywhere.
Home Sweet Home.
Later that night as we sit out on the “point”, the nearly full moon rises above the mountains. The desert floor almost seems to glow. Far away into Mexico, big thunderstorms begin to build beyond the Sierra Del Carmen. For over an hour the clouds light up from inside as lightning slashes through them. Yet the storms are so far away, that we never once hear thunder.
Sunday, October 9
I’m certain that I heard rain in the night, but the ground is dry as we get up and start moving. Rain or not, the clouds have moved in from Mexico. The sun is not yet up, and the sky above is clear, but the dessert lies underneath a blanket of clouds. After the sun breaks out, we are on an island looking out over an ocean of white.
After breakfast, we hit the Southeast Rim trail. By now the clouds have completely obscured the view.
By the time we get back into Boot Canyon the clouds are beginning to break up. As I watch the boys ahead of me on the trail, I’m thinking that next time they are definitely going to carry my pack! They should be able to split it up between them without any problem!
Our lunch stop is at the bear boxes at the Emory Peak turnoff. The sky is now clear, and a quick check reveals that everyone is still in good shape (well 2 out of 3 anyway), so we stash the packs and head up the Emory Peak trail. This is the first time I have been on the trail reroute, and I must say that I am very impressed, they did a great job.
Will is an old pro, who has been here before, but since this is C.J.’s first time to climb Emory; I can’t resist a little fatherly advice as we approach the summit rock pile.
“It’s really not as hard as it looks. Just take your time and pick out your hand and foot holds…C.J! Where are you?”
“I’m up here Dad. On top, with Will!”
“Oh…good job…I’ll be up there in a minute…Show off!”
Thirty years from now he probably wouldn’t have remembered what happened in Chemistry class. But I’ll bet he remembers this day for a very long time. I know I will. Sharing this trip with both of my boys is one of the highlights of my life.
Back down at the bear boxes, we shoulder the packs one last time. Hunger now drives our push down the mountain. We walk straight into the Basin Lodge where the boys begin to eat everything placed in front of them; chips, salsa, and chicken fried steak. We top it all off with the “Emory Peak” dessert; a chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream covered with chocolate syrup. It disappears almost the minute it hits the table; prompting Will to crack that we have just conquered Emory Peak twice in one day.
I’m not sure you ever conquer a mountain. But if you’re lucky, you’re allowed to see her at her very best. And we all come back a little bit better for the experience.
